Normandy Landing Beaches and The American Cemetery

Here Rests in Honored Glory

A Comrade In Arms

Known But To God

The American Cemetery is actually on American soil. The land was a gift to the US from the French government. This place is so serene -- other than the voices of others along the pathways, I only heard birds singing. It is difficult to imagine the terror that took place here on the bluff that overlooks Omaha Beach seventy years ago this month.

Omaha Beach. Over 34,000 landed on this beach, and the casualties here were the highest of all of the landing beaches.

Inside the Chapel:

"I GIVE UNTO THEM ETERNAL LIFE AND THEY SHALL NEVER PERISH"

This beautiful mosaic is on the ceiling of the chapel. I love how the woman (representing la France, perhaps France's symbolic Marianne) is caring for the dead soldier.

Soldiers visiting the cemetery.

The Star of David were on many of the gravesites. One of the things I noticed when looking at the grave markers was that it gave the name and rank of the soldier, as well as their home state and date of death, but did not show their birth date. I can only imagine how young many of them were.

This sculpture represents the soldier reaching heavenward. You can read, near his right hand, "Freedom is Forever"

At the feet of the sculpture, there were many floral arrangements. This simple note reads: "Thanks so much to all of you."

Dinan, Brittany FRANCE

The old town, which is situated on the edge of a plateau, has narrow, meandering cobblestone streets and buildings which date back to the 15th and 16th centuries (some even in the 13th). By the 18th century, Dinan had about 8,000 residents and its river transported goods such as farm products, skins, cloth and linen. The linen was especially important, as it was used here to maufacture sails for ships. These sails were exported to Holland, England, Portugal and Spain.

The Romanesque Basilique Saint Sauveur -- construction began in 1480.

A lovely road winds down to the village on the river below. The Brittany (or Britagne) area of France specializes in seafood and crêpes (the sweet ones, made with wheat flour) and galettes (the savory ones, made with buckwheat flour). 

We had lunch at the place with the yellow awning, lower left. I had a galette aux champignons (with mushrooms).

Saint Malo, Brittany FRANCE

The history of Saint Malo goes back to Medieval times, and although it has suffered two devastating fires (in 1661 and during WWII, August 1944), it maintains much of its original charm. The town was rebuilt most recently after WWII, in the 1950s & 60s, faithful to its early design and architecture. Our group, led by our Accent tour guide, Mirek, viewed the old town with a walk around its charming walls. 

This little guy was just hanging-out, enjoying the sun. I don't think he truly appreciatted the beauty of his surroundings.

The writer Chateaubriand is one of the most famous people to have come from this city. He chose to be buried in an unmarked grave on the small island just off of the coast, which is accessible by foot during low tide (you can see the island below, on the right). Speaking of which, the tides here (as in the Mont Saint Michel) are dramatic. Here is a salt-water pool with a high-dive platform. The water is replaced in this pool twice each day with the tide alone.

Here is the same pool at high tide. You can just make out the rim of the pool under water!

In addition to its historic charm, this town is a lovely place to spend a day by the sea -- the English Channel, that is. 

In its early history, privateers operated out of Saint Malo. The difference between privateers and pirates, I learned, is that privateers were working for their king/country, stealing from the ships of other countries. Pirates were independent agents, theives with no protection from a government. Privateers could actually receive a title and retire comfortably, if they lived long enough!

Still a thriving port city, there is a very large marina just outside the city's Medieval walls. Much of France's lumber is shipped through this port.

Kristina, Jessica, Nicole, Megan and Robert

Rebecca, Iris and Dara

Above: One of the few remaining original buildings. This is reputed to be one of the places where Anne of Britagne had lived. The town was originally part of Britain, but when it looked like France would take it over, Anne agreed to marry the French King, Charles VIII in 1491 in order to preserve the  autonomy of Brittany within the kingdom of France. When the king died, she married the next heir to the French throne (as had been in her marriage contract) and they proceeded to have several children.

Mont Saint Michel

My new friend, Oleya, taking a photo of Mont Saint-Michel

We arrived in the afternoon to this awe-inspiring view of the abbey which is perched on top of a triangular rock in the bay. Our guide, Malek, told us how, in 708, a dream (well several dreams) led Saint Aubert, the bishop of Avranches, to create a shrine of Saint Michael here. It has been a major pilgrimmage site ever since. Through the centuries, the abbey has seen many changes. 

In 966, the Duke of Normandy entrusted the Benedictine monks with the site. The abbey they built "in the Middle Ages was considered as the image of the Heavenly Jerusalem on earth." Did you know that Jerusalem is where we get "Salem", & "Shalom", meaning "Peace"?

The town under the abbey. . .

SO CROWDED! Definitely touristy -- and the food is super-expensive (and not very good).

This is Fiddler and his owner. A very sweet old Golden Retriever I got to pet. A Conversational French project while I'm here will be to visit with people who have dogs (easy to do, as Parisians love their dogs). Fiddler was resting about 2/3 the way up the hill to the abbey (LOTS of stairs).

Over the years, the abbey has taken new form. It was a Romanesque monestary & church in the 11th & 12th centuries. When some of it burned in 1204, it was decided to replace the part that was destroyed with the famous "bâtiment de la Merveille" . Eventually, in 1421 part of the church was replaced with  a Flamboyant Gothic structure. Each style of medieval architecture can be found here.

Not just for men anymore. Just another day at the office.

The Benedictine monks can be credited with designing the workday schedule of 8 hours of work, 8 hours  of rest and (for them) 8 hours of prayer. Here in the abbey, these monks worked designing illuminated manuscripts. Their work was done in a well-lit, cold room. The fire in the winter was not for them to be warm, but the means to keep the ink from freezing. They stood while they worked, and were allowed to occasionally , and one at a time (to discourage talking), warm their hands a little. 

The garden in the cloister -- a sheltered walkway.

While the monks were eating in an unheated hall, visiting royalty would eat in this room, heated by 3 enormous fireplaces (these two could roast whole game). All of these rooms were decorated with bright paintings, and tapestries hung on the walls. It must have been quite a sight. 

Our guide, Malek, Oleya, Phylise, Iris and Dara.

Heading Out of Town!

The Péripherique (the highway that circles the city of Paris) -- look out, 405, you've got some competition for the award for the most traffic! It took us a while to get out of Paris.

This was just as we were leaving the southern part of Paris. I don't know anything about this church, but I love the verdigris copper angels on top of the steeple.

Just outside the southern part of the city. Not historical or important (to me anyway), but interesting and beautiful in its own way.

Hours outside of Paris: Normandy, agricultural and cultural!

Our first up-close view of Mont Saint Michel. WOW

19 June: Our 26th Anniversary! We will celebrate together soon, but today: A Tour of the Paris Train Station, Gare de Lyon

First, and most important: Mark sent me this photo of one of our favorites, tulips (and my all-time favorite, himself). When we visited Paris together six years ago (to celebrate our 20th), we bought tulips for the apartment we stayed in -- they have had special meaning with that connection ever since. I'm really looking forward to having a belated anniversary with Mark in France next month! Je t'aime, Marc!!!

Today, the art class (which I am attending, but not taking -- all the fun, none of the homework!) did not meet. Our French class met at the Southeast Paris train station, Gare de Lyon, for a lesson on travel vocabulary and how to buy tickets, figure-out destinations and conduct (get it?!) onesself on the train.

Inside, there is a very old and very famous (and very expensive) restaurant, Le Train Bleu. One of my friends likened the inside to the decor of the Titanic. I can see why:

The train workers are currently on strike (for about a week now). Only about half of the trains are running, which makes the stations extra busy. Pierre said that it probably wont last too much longer, as most of France gets a summer vacation in July, and the workers would lose all of their leverage if they make the public mad by interfering with summer travel plans! I hope he is right!

I finally got some good photos of my classmates! Here I am with Phylise, Cindy, me and Pierre 

Above: Iris, Pierre, Jessica, Rebecca, and Christina

Above: Rebecca, Kristina, Tristan, Saul, Robert and Eloy

After class, Cindy and I had a great time re-visiting the covered market where she bought some sliced salami for later (six tranche mince, s'il vous plait -- six thin slices, please). We had Chinese food near the Bastille, and tried some pastries at Blé Sucre, owned  by a very famous pastry chef (NO, not all of those -- that was just for "staging").

Later that day, we stopped into an old French wine bar for a little glass of wine.

I had the Rosé Côte du Rhône bio (organic) -- dry, crisp and delicious, low in alocohol.